Day
One
Saturday, I’ve arrived in one peace. The landing was beautiful. Not a hitch. I prayed and prayed and prayed.
My Dad and I met my cousin Zette at the airport at 2:30pm, who then took us to the VIP room to secure our paper work prior to getting our luggage. After getting our stuff, Dad and I waited outside while Zette went to get her car. A sea of natives approached us asking to help us carry our bags. They all wanted handouts. One guy said, “I’ll protect you; these guys around here won’t do anything to you while I’m here”. All I could here in my head were dollar signs (Protection money in other words) so I gave him $1 US dollar. Then another guy approaches with his buddy wanting to carry the bags into Zette’s Trunk. Although Dad and Zette said NO, I decided the bags were too heavy for me to be lifting. I let one of them put the bags in the trunk and gave him $2 US dollars. A fourth guy who kept us company while Zette went to get the car also demanded money for talking to us while we waited. I gave him $1 US dollar. He felt that it wasn’t enough.
We’re in the car now and on our way to Zette’s home in Port au Prince, Delmar 65. The streets seem a lot calmer then I remembered, maybe it’s because I’ve sought gotten use to the environment, having been here last year. It appears we’re taking the scenic route: we drive pass the President’s home. We drive to other landmarks where I stop and take pictures. We make it to the house and relax in the living room watching T.V. and discussing our plans for tomorrow. Yes we got electricity for the moment. As we begin to talk through our plans to go to Port Salut tomorrow, the feasibility of such a trip begins to sound more complicated then ever. We talk of renting a car, but the prices are outrageous, I don’t know the roads well enough to drive, what if we get into an accident in the middle of no where. To hire a chauffeur is another risk in itself. The discussion goes on and on. We finally decide we’re going to the “Bûs”.
So we head back outside
destination: “Petionville” to convert our money before going to “Port
Salut”. We go to a number of places
trying to get the best “toe” rate. We go
to Dinah’s, Zette’s Daughter, Job hoping we could do the conversion their. I amazed at the technology. The
office has stream of New Macintosh Computers, and the latest gadgetries. I ask Dinah what sought of company is this?
She say’s it’s an online company called, “NetAccess.com”. I say to her, “I am totally impressed. I had no idea. Here I am thinking people in
We finally end up getting my $100 US dollar converted to $500 Haitian Dollar at a “Shop Rite” Super market in Petionville.
We’re back at the house and dinner
is served. I have to say it is a
beautiful feeling coming home and knowing there are “maids”, for lack of a
better word, to prepare meals for you and clean. I’m use to doing this all by myself. But I could get use this life real quickly. I had
Rice and beans, plantains, and Salad. I
decided no meat while I’m in
Dinner is done and I begin to think about tomorrow. I don’t look forward to tomorrow. There is some much Uncertainty. So many unanswered questions. In fact I’m a little scared to tell you the truth because it looks like we’ll be taking the “Bus” after all.
I‘ve got a long day ahead of me tomorrow I’ve got to get up at 4am. Good night.
Sunday 4am I’m up and I’m ready to face the unknown. I make breakfast consisting of Oatmeal, wheat bread and Jelly. We gobble down breakfast and head for the “Bus”. Dinah’s and one of her maids, “Jeannita” comes with us because she’s more familiar with the hustle at the bus stop. We arrive at the bus stop and it’s a nightmare. There are what seems like thousands of people waiting to board a hand full of buses. “Jeannita” goes out first to secure a “Spot” for us on one of the buses. She comes back to the car a few minutes later and says, “Ok. We have a spot. Get your bags and let’s hurry. I get out the car and get the 100lbs suitcases out the car and I’m dragging one suitcase on my left hand and another on my right. Jeannita and Dad are walking ahead. We arrive at the Bus and people are pushing to get on, others are lifting lug gages to place on top of the truck. People are attempting to grab our luggage to place on top of the truck but we insist it’s staying with us. In fact we’ve paid for seats on the bus to put the luggage. So we basically paid for 4 seats. 2 for the luggage’s and 1 for Dad and 1 for me. To make a long story short, by the time we could get our luggage on to the bus, the bus is so crowded we could barely fit the suitcases on the bus, much less think of getting Dad and myself on the bus. Nonetheless, we got on the bus, couldn’t sit of course. I’m thinking to myself , “There’s no way in Hell Dad is gonna make this 4 hour ride standing hunched over in this bus jam packed, with the bumps, mountains and rocking I remembered enduring on last year’s trip”. I immediately said to Dad “We’re getting off this bus. I felt a burst of energy. I hoist the 100lbs suitcases off the bus and we headed for another bus, I didn’t care if we paid already or not. There was no way I was staying there. Fortunately, “Jeannita” had not paid yet. We got to another bus that was a little less crowded but we new it would fill up quickly so we moved swiftly. The driver said there’s no way these suit cases can fit on the bus we have to put them on top of the buses. I was in no mood to argue. I helped them hoist the suitcases on top of the bus and realized we forgot Dad’s “Sack” with his medications in Dinah’s car. I ran back to Dinah’s Car hoping she was still there and fortunately she was. I grabbed the sack and ran back to the bus. I must say we got, well I got a good spot on the bus. Where I sat to the right of me was a young girl about 15 years old with a basket of food on her lap. She reminded me of “Little Red Ridding Hood”. To the left of me was another young lady about 16 with her boyfriend to the left of her and Dad was to the left of him. As for the others on the Bus, I don’t need to tell you of the caliber of people on this bus. This bus is tight but so much more bearable then the previous bus. However, the Driver’s assistant begins screaming at me to pay him, I tell him real loud that the lady we came with paid him, and I didn’t realize she hadn’t paid him yet. So we’re arguing back and forth. Finally she (Jeannita) arrives and striating things out with them. So I sit back and pray once again. Now that I’ve put my destiny in the hands of God, I finally am able to take a deep breath and relax.
We’re off to “Les Cayes” On our way, Dad attempts to spit out the window of the bus and his hat flies out the window. The bus is doing 50mph. Oh well, their goes that hat. A half hour later a kid jumps onto the side of the bus as the bus is moving. He holds onto the windowsill and says “Gabrille, Gabrille, Gabrille….” I guess that’s what he calls the food he was selling. He’s still hanging onto the bus, as the bus continues to pick up speed up hills down valleys, the kid is there saying “Gabrille, Gabrille” . I look at him in amazement. One slip and he’s dead. I look at his fingers on the windowsill a few inches from me and think to myself, “what If I was a mean spirited person. I could just lift those four little fingers and he’d !@#$” He finally jumps off the bus as the bus slows down briefly. I look at him and think to myself. “I don’t know if I could ever do what he did”. As the bus continues on… I looked out the window to see scenes only captured on the PBS channels. Kids playing butt naked along side the road and they’re covered in dirt. They seem so care free as if life just couldn’t be better.
We arrive at “Les Cayes” at about 11am. As we un-board the bus, we are practically ambushed by people asking where are we going, do we need help, do we need a ride. I could tell on my Dad’s face he was getting nervous or maybe anxious. Dad said, “Don’t let them touch your bags!”. I thought to myself, “These bags weight a Ton, there’s no way I can carry them.” So I said, “We’ve got to trust them at least to carry the bags.” We allowed one to hoist the bags on to what looks like a cart that is used to transport cement. It has one wheel up front and two handle bars to lift and use in the back. He rolls the cart to a “Cabionet” (a little pickup truck) that is going to “Port Salut”. We follow him closely. As we get to the Cabionet, he sticks out his hand requesting money. I give him $5 Haitian dollars (25 goudes). He says that’s not enough and starts to get upset and complain. In fact he refuses to take it. So I turn to Dad and ask him what‘s that guy’s problem. Dad says, “That how they are, don’t give him anything.” I turn back to him and give him $7 Haitian dollars. He shrugs his shoulder, takes the money and walks off. Now we’re haggling with the driver’s assistant. We’re in the back of the pick up truck, our luggage’s are well secure in the back of the little pick-up truck as well. However, they want us to pay for the space the pick up truck is taking up. We go back and forth between prices. Dad says, “You want us to get off the truck? Because what you’re asking is ridiculous”. Finally, we agree to a reasonable amount. I don’t remember what exactly, but when you think about it, it’s all chump change if you convert it to American money. I think in total for the bags and us it came out to $10 American dollars to take us 2 ½ hours to “Port Salut” from “Ocayes”
We’re on our way to “Port Salut”. The Cabionet is moving, I mean fast. We’re dangling in the back. Every bump is felt. The wood seats don’t help a bit. Dad and I are constantly shifting to absorb the shock on our butts every time we hit a bump. We hold on to the rails for safety as we approach hills that are at almost 75 degree angles, holes in the ground that would put any car out of commission if passed over. My heart is in my hands 30 minutes into the ride. Dirt is kicking up into our faces. Dad is lucky he brought a facemask with him, which he puts on. The only thing that saved me from complete and utter fear was this tiny little boy who couldn’t be more then 10 years old. He’s standing on the bumper of the pickup truck hanging on from outside of the truck. As we would approach hills, he would say in French “sa se deusiem la.” Or “sa se trosiem la”. Meaning every time the car needed to shift gears he would know when the truck was about to shift and he would say it in such excitement that you had to laugh. He would also make jokes along the way. He’s distraction and complete lack of fear help calm my nerves tremendously. I felt so bad having arrived to “Port Salut” and not having any small Currency in Haitian money to Tip him with. I couldn’t give him American money because Dad said it would draw too much attention to us and expose us….
I jumped off the pick up truck when we arrived at “Madame Renan” house in “La force” which is also in Port Salut. I took the luggage off the truck. “Naunoutte” came out and all the neighbors began coming out to see who it was. I waved and greeted her and told her to have someone take the bags in because we’re going to continue to Dad’s house in “Port Salut”. I got back onto the truck and we headed down the road until we got to Dads place. We were pleasantly surprised to see the Development of the walls around the house had actually been done. We took a tour of the out side of the house and walked back to “La Force”. On our way their, we stopped and greeted so many people, I felt like a celebrity.
We finally made it back to “Madame Renan” house where I saw Grannie. She looked as young as ever. She seemed so happy. I talked to Michlee, Mommy’s brother. He is so funny. When he saw me he said, “Daly, what did you bring me”. We unpacked our stuff in the new house. The house is beautiful. I put my stuff in One room, Dad had his stuff in another bedroom. I had my own Bathroom, and Dad had his own Bathroom. We went back out to the house in the front where Grannie, and Naunoutte sleeps. We sat outside in the beautiful night as the kids came into our yard. I began to play with them. They had a soccer ball filled with clothes not air. The ball weight a lot more then a regular ball does. You have to give these folks an “A” for imagination. We played all kinds of games with the ball. There were at least 10 kids playing at one time. As the Sun set, the kids began to clear out until there were none. Dad and I stayed outside and enjoyed the peaceful quiet night. You could see the stars shine so clearly and the Moon, I’ve never seen it brighter. Naunoutte locked the front barriers by 7:30. She was in her house and fast asleep by 8pm as well as the entire neighborhood. I guess when there’s no electricity they go to sleep early. Either way it was too early for us to sleep, but we manage to settle into the new house in the back, I went to bed at 9:30pm. Good Night.
It’s Monday 6:00am and I’m awaken to the roosters “Cock-a-doc-a-doddle-do” and the Dogs barking, and cows, mooing, and sheep’s Baassoohhhh”. The morning starts with a cold bath of buckets of water which our secretair – Janelle gets from the basin out back. After bathing, I prepare my own breakfast. Instant Oatmeal, and a bowl of Corn flax with Soymilk, and a multigrain bar all of which I transported from NYC. After breakfast my Dad and I headed out to the streets. As we walked up the block, once again at every home along the way we were stopped and greeted. We would make small talk, take a tour of their home and continue on. The more neighbors I met, the more I realized these folks are lot older then they look. Plus they are as strong as an Ox. My aunt Naunautte who’s got to be in her 60’s and Janelle (Monsieur Secratair) carried the refrigerator to the new house where we are staying.
I couldn’t believe it when I saw her walking up the steps with this huge refrigerator. I offered to help but she just shrugged me off and continued on as if this is routine. Unfortunately the Electricity hasn’t worked yet since we’ve arrived.
The time is
now 12noon, my Dad and I take a walk to “La Cafou” where he has other lands. We get there finally. I’m surprised how well Dad is able to walk
now that we’re in
Ok. We are back at Grannie’s house amusing ourselves with all of the kids who are there to see us “Jasporas”(American Haitians). Today is a Monday so school is in. However, their school schedule is so weird. The boys attend “Cayes Frère” at 12pm and the girls attend “Cayes Mère” at 1pm. There outfits are so adorable, as well as the pot they take with them to school. This empty pot has to be filled with food at school. I take pictures of the kids in there school clothes holding the pot. They run off to school. Just then a Jeep pulls up to our house and out comes 3 well dress ladies requesting to speak to Dad. I ask them to have a seat on the Patio, while I go and get Dad from inside the house. Dad arrives and we are all introduced to one another and seated in a circle.
I’m sorry
to break into the story but as I’m writing this journal it’s raining for the
first time since I’ve been here. It’s a
beautiful feeling, the air is crisped, sitting on the patio, writing and
hearing the raindrops. Rain is so
important here and yet
Ok. Where was I ? Yes. We began to make small talk, while in our little circle about the house my Dad Built. Apparently the Hospital, with ties to the Gov’t, would like to rent the land and the House. So my Dad and I and the Guests agree to take a better look at the house’s interior prior to discussing any tangible negotiations. We jump into the Jeep and we’re off to the house. We manage to unlock and show most of the house except the bathroom. Unfortunately, wed did not and do not as of write now, have keys to the bathroom. The guests insisted that Dad present them with an offer regardless whether they’ve seen the house. My Dad suggested two different amounts: One amount which would cover the cost of repairs to the house. Second amount would be to rent the house and land as is and any repairs would be their responsibility. They agreed to take the offer back to their people to discuss and have an answer by Wednesday.
While my Dad and I are at the house, we decide to drop by the carpenter’s place which is right next door. (NOTE: The carpenter (Boss Bébé) has an agreement with my Dad to put in new wooden doors and windows. The agreement was made a year and half ago and still the project is not complete. According to Boss Bébé, he ran out of many and can not complete the project because the cost to complete the double layered doors is more then he expected. Hence, he needs additional $1000 Haitian dollars to complete the project. ) So we introduce ourselves and are invited in to his house. We go to the back where he is working on another project. His wife and kids are back there with us. We began discussing our little roadblock. The carpenter agrees to come to our house this evening to discuss this further.
We walk back to La Force where “Madame Renan’s” house is. We await Boss Bebe’s arrival. As we are waiting, we take the opportunity to play games with the kids who loves coming to our yard. We sit around in a huge circle and exchange “Malice & Boukey” stories as well as “Tim-Tim/ Boir Shesh” jokes. Following, the stories the kids take turn dancing to reggae music I play from a cassette player my brother Nico lent me. I totally blow the kids mind with the light fixtures which brightens up the entire porch in the dark of night. They dance around the circular light fixtures on the floor. They press on the light fixture constantly, turning it on and off. Asking questions as to how it’s able to light. I tell them It’s magic and there face lights up. I finally show them the batteries in the back and they get so excited. They continue to dance around the lights all night --- Until – you won’t believe it!!! Electricity surged through out the town. The lights on the Streets light up the blue sky. The kids screeched at the top of their lungs. It all happened so suddenly I didn’t know what they were screaming at but I soon realize it was the joy of light. They ran off to their homes. I took the liberty of cooking soup on the electric stove we have in the house, I listened to the Haitian Radio stations while playing “Trois Sept”(card game) with Dad on the porch. Until tomorrow... Good Night.
It’s Tuesday 6:30am. I can’t believe how windy it was last night. I thought a cyclone was on it’s way here if not here already. The trees rattled furiously. I heard sounds so deafening I thought if this house wasn’t made of cement, we would be swept away. I barely slept all night because of this wind now Dad’s at the heel of my bed trying to wake me up. As if I’m not on Vacation. It reminds me of when I was a kid living at home and he’d come to our room every morning at 6am like clockwork. “Don’t pretend to be sleeping. Every body up. You’ve got work to do…” This would happen even on the weekends. Well, I’m up now, no choice. He says we have a long day ahead of us. I head to the bathroom and realize we’re running real low on basin water. So I call our “Monsieur Secretair” – Janelle. He fetches some buckets of water to flush and bath with. I make breakfast using the electric stove. Yes. Electricity is still running, but the refrigerator doesn’t seem to work. AT least we’ve got the electric stove and light now so I’m not complaining. They say the reason we’ve got electricity now is because “The Minister” is in town. I hope he stays all week. Anyways, we make Oatmeal, with wheat bread. Once breakfast is over, we take a walk over to Dads house in Port Salut to chat with the Carpenter Boss Bébé because he had not shown up the night before as expected. Once there, we began disputing the initial contract and the new terms. We realize the keys to the house are back at “Madame Renan’s” home in La Force. We have been disputing for hours now. I decide to go get the keys so we can see what interior work needs done with regards to door installations. As I walk along the path to La Force, once again I find myself waving to everyone and being greeted “Salut”, bonjour Nolens, etc. I finally arrive. Janelle is kind enough to lend me a bike to ride back to Port Salut. I ride back where I find my Dad still disputing the agreement for the project. Still no resolution. It’s 2pm and we’re hungry. We leave, and head back to La Force. Dad decides to ride the bike back. He stops halfway and waits for me as he is out of breath because of the energy he exerted riding. So we walk back together. Once again greeting everyone as if it were the first time seeing them today. Dad knows so many people or should I say so many people know Dad. Many of the people who greeted him he did not remember until they reminded him of who they are. I find when I walk alone, they refer to me as Nolens. We arrived back at the house. I ate Rice and Beans for lunch. I then went back to Dads house in Port Salut with one of the neighbors boy (Izoa). We needed someone small enough to climb through an opening above the door to get to the other side to open the bathroom door which was locked from the outside. I rode Izoa on the bike to Port Salut. He was able to climb over and open the door for me. I gave him a $1 US. And explain to him the conversation, which is $5 Haitian dollars, 25 goude. He was so excited I told him to promise not to tell the other kids. We rode back to La Force, I soon as we got back, I could hear him telling the other kids. That is kids for you!
We’re now
back on the Porch sitting with us is a neighbor Te-Paul. I don’t know why everyone name Te-… is far
from Small yet Te-.. means small. Te-Paul is 19yrs old he works the field and
it shows. He’s got strong features and dark complexion. So we sit together discussing life,
Wednesday, It’s 3:00am and I’m wide awake. The roosters are howling. I lay in bed for a half hour just thinking with my eyes open. In the corner of my eyes, I see a small object run across the ceiling. Since my flash light is always next to me I reach for it and light the dark area in the ceiling. To my horror it was a spider. I immediately jumped out of bed with the flash still focused on the spider. I yelled for Dad to come see what it is. He was in the Kitchen at the time preparing breakfast. He comes into the room and says “it’s just a harmless little spider, don’t be chicken, they don’t harm you and walks away. I’m frozen stiff still focused on this spider. For the next 15 minutes wondering how I’m going to get this thing out of my room. Dad eventually returns and ask if I killed it yet. At that time I had already disturbed it by throwing a cloth at it. It was somewhere running around on the ground now. I think I killed it, but I wouldn’t bet my life on it. I left the room and began getting ready for a new day. We’re off to Ocayes at 5am to take care of some financial business. We arrive at Ocayes so early most businesses aren’t opened yet. As we walk along the roads, bicycles are zooming passed us left and right. Every one has a bicycle. There are more bikes on the road then are cars. I stop to take pictures of the students going to school in the different color coded uniforms. We saw kids who were late for school climbing over 8 foot walls to get onto the school grounds because the front door is closed. You’d have to be there to see the humor in the lengths these kids would go to trying to get in the school.
We made it to the Bank in Ocayes where we converted some
more money and attempted to conclude our business however we are unable to do
so because I left my Passport back in Port au Prince with Zette for Safe
keeping. I know Dad must be furious. It looks like we’ll have to take another trip
down to
We’re
heading back to Port Salut. We jump onto
2 taxi motorcycles who rides us to the bus
terminal.
When I
arrived back to La Force in Port Salut, I headed strait for a
After freshening up we headed to Boss Bebe’s home. Along the way, Dad and I stopped at many different homes and I gave them money. I felt like we were some sought of Mafia. It was a handshake with $10 delivered in one felt shake. I was very happy to donate and see the expressions on their face. We run into Clausel, who tells us our cousin “Roro” is in Port Salut throwing a party. I haven’t seen him yet. We continue on our way to the house. When we arrived, all the kids are waiting there. I guess words got out the Darbouze’s are giving away money. Well, since these were the same kids who have been entertaining us since I arrived, they all got a share of my generosity. We played games so they could win more money, such as the best dancer contest. We played Reggae music and each one took turns performing. My Dad was the Judge. Michlee won the Best dancer competition. It was so much fun watching him and the others dance. The hours just kept passing so fast before you know it, it was time for the kids to leave because they’ve got school tomorrow. The kids go home. Dad, Te-Paul and , I are attending to business with Boss Bebe. Half hour later, the written revised agreement is approved and signed by Te-Paul as a witness. The business concludes for the night. Te-Paul and Boss Bebe heads home. We locked up and went back into the house to discuss what’s on the agenda for tomorrow. Good Night.
It’s Thursday Morning and we’re up at 6am electricity is
shut off. So I ask Naunautte to burn
coal so I can boil my water. After
having Oatmeal, and corn flax I’m ready…
As I begin to wash the dishes I hear a familiar voice coming from the
Porch. It’s Roro my cousin. He ask why I didn’t come to the Radio Station
Party he held the night before. I told
him I didn’t know about it. Anyways,
we’re glad to see each other and finally meet up. Roro tells me and my dad as we stand around
in a circle on the Porch that he will be leaving for Port au Prince at
12noon. He speaks to my Dad about having
me leave with him at 12noon. Dad and I
consider the plans we had scheduled for today, and weight the alternative –
which would be me on the “Camion” or “Bus” tomorrow. I decide rather quickly, yes I’ll be coming
back with Roro. So now Dad and I are
scrambling to move our plans up. The
horses are out front waiting for us to saddle t hem. I being new to this horse ridding business
was a bit nervous. But being the dare
devil that I am, I had “Te-Paul” hold the rein of the horse while I saddled
him. Dad saddled the other horse with
the help of Janelle. We took a picture
on the horse and we headed out to see more of Dad land that is beyond walking
distance. As we head down the road it
seems every body and there uncle knows we’re going to see “Tear Darbouze”. As we travel and travel, a feeling came over
me that was the most earth moving experience I have ever felt. I watch Dad in
front of me riding the horse with a wipe in one hand and the reins in another
as he commanded the horse to ride gallantly across the field leading to his
land. I could tell he was right at home and this was where he was meant to
be. While riding we came across so many
different species of animals from cows to sheep’s to mules. There were so many workers plowing the land
as we passed by on our horses. It
brought back images of a movie scene of the old
I’m back at the house packing, people are flocking to the house, because the word is out – Pousson is leaving at noon. Some come asking for clothes others for money. I know all of them by now because I’ve greeted them at one point or another during my trips back and forth between Port Salut and La Force. I was obliged to give all I could because I knew how much they needed it. I left my Suit Case and clothes, watch, cassette player (which belongs to Nico). They wanted everything and I didn’t have the heart to say no. I figure when I get back to the states I could always purchase another one.
Roro is
here and it’s time to go. I give good
bye salutations to everyone and I jump in Roro’s Jeep. We’re off to Port Au Prince. No more back Seat “Camion”, “
Bus” riding, Dirt filled clothes days are over I think to myself as we peel
off.
Part II
To be continued…